Mr Cooper's House

The Midland Hotel, Peter St, Manchester , Manchester , United Kingdom, M60 2DS
Critics Review 17.5/20
Restaurant info
Opening Information

Daily lunch and dinner

  • Disabled Access
  • Families and Children Welcome

About Mr Cooper's House

Description brought to you by Manchester Confidential:

British bistro fare from multi-Michelin-starred exec chef in leafy surrounds.
It’s to Mr Cooper’s Head Chef Gareth Jones credit that he’s not phased by working with the country’s top chef, Simon Rogan. Deceptively simple dishes like hyssop meatballs or pork chops with a sage crust have a classical background, and use many of the same techniques and recipes employed at The French (Rogan’s fine dining restaurant also in the Midland) and two-Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cartmel. As a result, this really is one of the best value restaurants in town. Often there are just three flavours on the plate – beef, apricot, and cucumber in the case of the meatballs - but sourcing is immaculate, typically sharing Cumbrian producers with L’Enclume. Simple yet luxurious is the theme, think smoked eel torte, lovage and pork belly or duck caramelized with molasses sugar. The restaurant is a one-off among the Rogan group, using international inspirations on the dishes as well as British-produce. Plants and herbs play their part in the light-clad restaurant too, which is named after the old house and garden that was built here in 1819. Cascading ferns and patio furniture that make it feel like destination dining while ‘library’ wallpaper depicting hundreds of leather bound tones lend a colonial vibe.

Cuisine: British
Dress Code: Smart Casual
Price point:
£ £ £ £ £


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Critics Review
Review by Manchester Confidential's Jonathan Schofield
Lovage is a singularly plant, 'the sole species in the genus Levisticum in the family Appiaceae, subfamily Apioideae, tribe (plants have tribes?) Apieae' - or so Wikipedia says. Yep. Right. Good. But reduced and liquified into a splodge of green and forked up with the 'cheesecake', it's a marvel that tastes not only utterly beautiful but almost uplifting. Even worthy. I could have this dish every day for a month and not grow tired. The good thing is that I have no idea how it was made or dreamt up. That's the point of dining out, eating things you couldn't remotely cook at home without undergoing a long chef's apprenticeship first.
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