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Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond

Cameron House Hotel, Alexandria, United Kingdom, G83 8QZ
Critics Review 17/20
Restaurant info
Opening Information

Lunch:
Saturday — 12:00–14:00
Sunday — 12:00–14:30

Dinner:
Wednesday to Saturday — 18:30–22:00
Sunday — 19:00–22:00

Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond closes on Mondays & Tuesdays.

Facilities

About Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond

Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond has recently undergone a complete makeover by Martin Wishart house designer Ian Smith. The idea has been to create an elegant and stylish, but relaxed and calming environment where guests can feel at ease. Encouraging them to be fully open to the fine dining experience and enjoy the spectacular mountainside beauty of Loch Lomond.

Cuisine: Scottish
Dress Code: Smart Casual
Price point: $ $ $
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Critics Review
Review By Andy Hayler
17/20
This restaurant is tucked away one floor up from the reception area of the large Cameron House hotel, located on the banks of Loch Lomond. Martin Wishart’s outlet opened in 2009, an offshoot of his excellent Leith flagship. It gained a Michelin star in the 2013 Guide, and has Graeme Cheevers in charge of the kitchen. He previously worked at the Peat Inn, and worked his way up from a commis chef position to head chef at the Loch Lomond restaurant at the tender age of twenty three. The dining room has a pleasing view over the waters of the loch and the grounds of the hotel. The room is partly carpeted, though the otherwise reassuringly low noise levels that result are rather oddly raised by background music, which this evening was rather incongruously a selection from the glory days of disco. The tables are well spaced and covered with impeccably ironed white linen tablecloths. There was a choice of either a six or eight course tasting menu at £80 and £95 respectively, and a full vegetarian alternative at both lengths; you can mix and match dishes freely between these menus. A pair of nibbles began the meal: a gougere of onion and Gruyere cheese with a rich liquid centre, and a squid ink macaron with smoked apple mousse and chives topped with sevruga caviar. The gougere had excellent choux pastry and good cheese flavour, but the macaron was even better, with excellent texture and precise flavour balance (17/20 average). The wine list had wide geographic coverage, with labels from Romania and Switzerland as well as more familiar regions; prices ranged from £28 to £1,400. Sample bottles were Bodegas Ontanon Crianza 2011 at £37 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for £11, J.J. Prum Riesling Kabinett 2010 at £64 compared to its retail price of £19, and Lenne Estate Pinot Noir at £80 for a wine that will set you back £38 in a shop. Posher bottles included Dominus 2009 at a very fair £140 given that its shop price is £152, and Chateau Talbot at a much less kind £280 for a bottle whose current market value is £131. Similarly, Margaux 1999 was an excessive £1,200 for a label that currently costs £397on average in a shop. Sourdough bread was bought in from a local farmhouse called Ardarden and was pleasant enough, but was nothing special (14/20). The kitchen here can surely make better bread than this. A further nibble comprised brown shrimp with lime, chive and crisp wild rice, which had just the right amount of citrus to balance the inherent sweetness of the shrimps (17/20). Even better was beef tartare with horseradish cream on a rice cracker. This had lovely meat with precise seasoning, a spicy kick from the horseradish and a pleasing textural contrast from the rice cracker - terrific (18/20). Presse of tomato with avocado, basil oil, dehydrated tomatoes and micro basil had good tomato flavour, though was not quite in the same league as the previous nibbles (16/20). The first formal dish of the meal was mackerel (apparently landed at Peterhead) that had been marinated and cured, served with quinoa, fresh cheese, melon, pickled cucumber and radish. the fish was of pleasant quality but not thrilling as mackerel can sometimes be, though I liked a buckwheat crisp on the side topped with bonito mayonnaise (16/20). Hand-dived Orkney scallops came with caramelised white radish, ponzu beurre blanc, soy and bone marrow dumpling dipped in dehydrated scallop roe. The shellfish were of high quality with good inherent sweetness, nicely balanced by the sharpness of the ponzu, the hint of soy working well (17/20). Lobster was caught in Troon and served with fennel, smoked egg yolk, tomato concasse, brown shrimps and crispy wild rice. The lobster meat was tender and worked well with the fennel and tomato, the rice and egg yolk adding additional layers of flavour (17/20). Foie gras mousse came with poached apricots, fresh almonds, seeds, nuts, bitter leaves and oloroso jelly. The mousse had silky texture, the richness of the deep liver flavour cut through by the acidity of the apricots, with the jelly and nuts providing contrasting textures, and finally the slight bitterness of the leaves bringing an extra flavour dimension. The balance of this dish was superb, every element bringing something to the party, and the overall effect was glorious (19/20). From the vegetarian menu, Jersey Royal potatoes came with egg yolks and broad beans, baby leeks, crisp wild rice and a smoked mousseline. The broad beans were of particularly good quality, and the dish elements combined well (17/20). Turbot from a very large 8kg fish (generally speaking, the bigger the turbot the better the flavour) was cooked very precisely, with a mother of pearl sheen on its surface. This came with smoked cockles, mushroom puree, mushroom duxelle with lime segments, all resting in a sauce of white wine and cooking juices. The fish was lovely and the duxelle in particular was an excellent foil for it (18/20). From the vegetarian menu, celeriac was braised with salt and baked, served with a puree of summer truffle and a vinaigrette along with brunoise of vegetables. The celeriac had plenty of earthy flavour, though there is always a limit to how thrilling summer truffles can be (16/20). My main course was saddle of roe deer with caramelised shallot petals, shallot crisps, salt baked celeriac, a sauce of caramelised onion and the venison cooking juices, and a summer truffle vinaigrette. The deer was cooked pink and had excellent flavour, the shallot elements working nicely and the sauce having reasonable intensity (17/20). A little pre-dessert of lemon curd, oatmeal and passion fruit foam was refreshing, the acidity of the lemon curd balancing the passion fruit well (17/20). Lemon verbena parfait came with strawberries from Perthshire, an aero made from Valrhona chocolate, caramelised white chocolate, green strawberry, strawberry sorbet, a garnish of wood sorrel and finally a "consommé" of strawberry and camomile. The strawberries themselves had good flavour and worked well with the chocolate, though the wood sorrel seemed out of place (16/20). The best dessert was chocolate with cherry and pistachio delice, Valrhona manjara chocolate, a chocolate mousse, cherries steeped in chartreuse and a sorbet of cherry beer. The combination of chocolate and cherries is a classic, the dish was pretty and the balance of the fruit and the chocolate was spot on (18/20). Coffee was Illy, and came with some petit fours: an excellent mango jelly, good blackcurrant macaron, delice of salted caramel that was a bit too salty, and a pleasingly rich whisky truffle. The bill came to £174 per head with plenty of good wine. If you shared a modest bottle then a typical cost per head would be around £115. Service, led by the charming Christopher Donnachie, was excellent throughout the evening, friendly and silky smooth. I was very impressed with the whole experience tonight. Some second restaurants of existing Michelin starred chefs can feel as if they are just knock offs designed to milk money from the gullible (I'm looking at you "Ametsa With Arzak Instruction") but nothing could be further from the truth here. Instead the young head chef is developing his own distinct style while still guided by the culinary foundations laid by the original restaurant. The best dishes tonight were absolutely superb, and the standard was high throughout. If you are anywhere near Loch Lomond then do yourself a favour and book a meal here.
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Visited On Saturday, 18 November 2017

Beautifully decorated restaurant creating a luxurious but relaxed dining experience. The service was exceptional from start to finish, welcoming and friendly with excellent knowledge of the dishes and wine pairings. The food was exceptional, balanced courses with perfectly cooked produce. Thank you for a wonderful meal in a beautiful setting.

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Visited On Sunday, 19 November 2017

Wonderful consistent fine dining experience Food amazing and served with elegance and style Attention to detail from all the staff and the manager excellent , a pleasurable experience to definitely be repeated.

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Visited On Wednesday, 15 November 2017

It was amazing dinner

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Visited On Saturday, 18 November 2017

Lovely setting, staff were excellent and food outstanding.

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Visited On Saturday, 18 November 2017

All very positive no complaints Mark new member of staff could not do enough for us Love everything about Martin Wisharts

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Visited On Wednesday, 15 November 2017

Absolutely amazing in all aspects. Best meal and evening I have had for years!

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Visited On Sunday, 05 November 2017

Wishart restaurant at Loch Lomond have deservedly earned their stars. The tasting menu with wine flight was superb and will be visiting again. Well worth visiting if you are staying in the area.

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Visited On Saturday, 04 November 2017

A spectacular lunch menu that was complimented by delicious wines chosen by a very knowledgeable sommelier. Altogether a wonderful experience.

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Visited On Sunday, 05 November 2017

The food was amazing as expected however the staff really made the experience. They were all extremely professional but also really friendly and chatty. We can’t wait to come back.

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Visited On Sunday, 22 October 2017

A superb dining experience, each of the many dishes in the taster menu was nothing less than exquisite in flavour, texture and presentation, and service was impeccable. All staff involved deserve a great deal of credit. Thank you all for looking after us so well, and for treating us to a first meal as betrothed that we will always remember.

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Visited On Sunday, 05 November 2017

We have dined at Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond well over a dozen times in recent years and on each occasion We have been made to feel special. The standard of service, quality and originality of the meal is consistently outstanding and the service is without doubt the best we have experienced. We consider ourselves very fortunate to have such a wonderful place to dine virtually on our doorstep so close to Glasgow.

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Visited On Thursday, 02 November 2017

I had made a passing comment when booking the meal via the hotel system that the weekend was a combined 50th birthday for my wife and I, so was very impressed with the 2 birthday cards on the table when we arrived. I was even more impressed with the special desert plate saying happy birthday Thanks to all the staff for a great meal and lovely food

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Visited On Saturday, 04 November 2017

Presentation and quality of food was exceptional. Absolutely fantastic flavour combinations.

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Visited On Friday, 03 November 2017

We've been to many Michelin star restaurants around the world. Yours was really special thanks the lovely staff and the natural ingredients used. We had a wonderful time. Thank you!

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Visited On Saturday, 28 October 2017

The food and wine pairing was wonderful. The focus is on fish which I love and the langoustine course was particularly tasty. The service was great throughout the meal but I was slightly disappointed at the end of our visit. I think our petit fours were forgotten about as we did not get them until after we had finished our tea and coffee, by which time we really wanted to leave. We then had trouble catching someones attention to get the bill. For the price you pay and the fact 10% service is added to the bill this was a little disappointing.

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Visited On Friday, 03 November 2017

Martin Wishart is on a par with Michelin star restaurants in London. In fact, it has exceeded a 2 Michelin star we have been to recently. Everything exceeded our expectations and we will be back!

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Visited On Wednesday, 01 November 2017

An outstanding meal in a fabulous setting.

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Visited On Wednesday, 01 November 2017

Fantastic food and service, food was balanced, tasty, just right in volume and service was spot on. Langoustine, scallop, Crab and bream bouche all fantastic. Highly recommended!

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Visited On Wednesday, 25 October 2017

This was a truly wonderful evening. It was a birthday treat for Cheryl who came with me and she was over the moon. All the staff were delightful, attentive and knowledgeable and Chris' commentary on the complimentary wines were a real eye opener (and taste buds were also enlightened). We are both great lovers of the area - especially Loch Ard - and I hope to visit you again in the not too distant future.

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Visited On Sunday, 29 October 2017

Enjoyed a very creative vegetarian 8 course taster menu. Maybe too many pre meal extras so we couldn’t finish some of the courses. The desserts were the highlight for me. We felt the wine was slightly overpriced compared to similar establishments

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Visited On Sunday, 29 October 2017

First time eating here and found it a great atmosphere. The staff were very friendly and attentive. The food was superb and would certainly recommend it to friends.

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Visited On Saturday, 28 October 2017

Been to quite a few Michelin Star restaurants in Scotland and overall this was by far the best. Couldn't recommend it highly enough. We will definitely revisit.

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Visited On Saturday, 28 October 2017

Had a wonderful evening, the food was outstanding, as was the wine. We all thought the sommelier was fabulous and contributed significantly to a culinary experience we will always remember.

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Visited On Friday, 27 October 2017

We had the six-course tasting menu. The food was good, but especially the two starters were nothing spectacular, and one could expect more from a Michelin-starred restaurant. The wine pairings were very good throughout. The service was flawless.

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Visited On Wednesday, 25 October 2017

The sommelier was knowledgeable and entertaining, although wines were a little expensive.

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