Lurra

9 Seymour Place, London, United Kingdom, W1H 5BA
Critics Review 8/10
Restaurant info
Opening Information

Monday 6-1030pm
Tuesday to Saturday 12-230pm & 6-1030pm
Sunday 1230-330pm

Facilities
  • Private Dining
  • Outdoor Seating

About Lurra

Lurra will take its influence from the traditional charcoal and wood grills “Erretegia” found all over the Basque Country. This is a great culinary tradition that enhances flavours, aromas and respects the virtues of the product.

Cuisine: Spanish, Fine Dining
Dress Code: Casual
Price point:
£ £ £ £ £

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Critics Review
Lurra, London W1 – restaurant review
8/10
The last time I suggested that something was the taste of 2015, I ended up in Private Eye’s Pseuds’ Corner. (I blame The Manor in Clapham and its kombucha sours.) So thrilled was I about the accolade that I’m going for it again: 2015 is, quite emphatically, the year of the old cow. And, no, I don’t mean me. I mean meat. The beef served at glamorous new Lurra isn’t so much about the current cult around length of ageing as actual animal years: the Galician rubia gallega they dish up here can reach 17 years old (typically, UK cattle are slaughtered at 18 months). This veneration of age has been the hardcore carnivore’s niche fetish for some time (see Levanter in Ramsbottom and Brindisa, which has for a while now featured “cider house beef”, usually retired dairy cows ). But its current place in the sun really came about as a result of the much-hyped Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair, which put chewing through a 12-year-old Galician milker top of those fetishists’ list of must-dos. Marylebone’s Donostia also did much to popularise vaca vieja and the idea that beef needed to taste of way more than the grill. And it’s one of Donostia’s owners, Nemanja Borjanovik, who’s responsible for supplying that meat – and spreading its fame – not only to Kitty Fisher’s, but also to Goodman and Pizarro, all outfits that know a good beast when they chomp it. Now Borjanovik and partner Melody Adams have launched Lurra (it means “land” in Basque), which puts that meat centre stage. Presentation is utterly simple: the meat is blasted with heat (“We serve it medium-rare. Is that OK?”), scattered with sea salt and plonked on a fiercely hot cast-iron serving dish. This creates my only criticism: the precious meat (£42 for 650g) continues to cook in the scalding dish’s residual heat, so by the time we’re halfway through, it’s well done. This is fine for yer sizzling tandoori chicken, but for this quality of meat: nu-huh. Up until its frazzling, this rubia gallega (not a milker, bred only for beef) is the most ambrosial piece of meat, almost sweet, with the length of flavour of an aged Parmesan or a fine, full-bodied wine; it makes cavemen of the pair of us. Apparently some customers have been asking for the creamy fat to be trimmed off, a fact that’s causing me to gnash with frustration. There’s plenty more to thrill, even on such a short menu. (And there’s nowt wrong with that: at Bar Nestor in San Sebastián, which the meat-importing arm of the company credits as an influence, the only other dishes on the menu are a tortilla, “gildas”, padrón peppers, Ibérico de bellota and a tomato salad. That’s it.) You can have courgette flower, its stem crisp and earthy, its blossom fried until lacy and bulging with oddly unfishy cod brandada. Or octopus: smoky, tender tentacles in piquillo pepper sauce. Or whole turbot, burnished in its fish basket over the grill and served with a dressing made from the Basque country’s beloved light txacoli wine (and a homage to legendary Basque asador Elkano). I even brave unloved-by-me kokotxas pil pil – gelatinous cods’ throats in an emulsion of olive oil, garlic and fish stock – and find myself warming to the slippery little dollops (only two of them for £7, though: yikes). Chips – crisp, golden, dusted with pimentón and accessorised by an aïoli dip of artery-clogging richness – are as impossible to resist as bloody Doritos. The owners are also wine importers, so the ribeiro is rich and ripe and luscious. Somehow, we’re the last people to leave. It’s easy to linger: the restaurant itself is lovely, all pale wood and marble, a refreshing departure from today’s ubiquitous bare brick and tin ceilings. Light-filled by day, elegant and otherworldly, it’s a haughty supermodel of restaurant design. Far more expansive than its discreet Marylebone shopfront suggests, there’s a hidden interior courtyard fringed with kitchen herbs. Prop up the bar on a mint-green stool in front of the tiny, busy kitchen, a cold store brimming with the ageing meat at your back, and watch and salivate as your steak sears. To eat meat of this quality back in its homeland, you’d likely be in a bare-boned, rough-edged erretagia (the Basque version of the asador). Here, though, all is sunny elegance. Lurra is, in more ways than one, an absolute beauty. Food 8/10 Atmosphere 8/10 Value for money 6/10
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Visited On Thursday, 06 May 2021

Exceptional

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Visited On Monday, 03 May 2021

Overall nice but overpriced for what it is.

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Visited On Sunday, 02 May 2021

Great restaurant

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Visited On Sunday, 02 May 2021

Absolutely delicious food, service was great and the place is beautiful. Totally recommend for a Date venue

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Visited On Saturday, 01 May 2021

la rubia gallega es maravillosa

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Visited On Saturday, 01 May 2021

Great food!

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Visited On Friday, 30 April 2021

Cold food, hardly any heat from the heater, wasn't given the option to go to the back courtyard. Slow service, some dishes overpriced - overall not the best experience.

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Visited On Thursday, 29 April 2021

The staff were wonderful and the food was fantastic.

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Visited On Wednesday, 28 April 2021

This was hands down the best restaurant I've ever been to in London for its steak. The Galician blonde was cooked to such perfection; buttery, tender, melting in mouth. We'd never tasted tomatoes as good as these before either. It was honestly an absolute joy to spend the evening with you and your excellent waiting staff who were unbelievable accomodating, despite it getting late and everyone probably wanting to leave. Such a special evening with pure heart, soul and passion and the very core. 100% coming back. Thank you!!

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Visited On Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Delicious food and really great service

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Visited On Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Amazing food!

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Visited On Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Great quality food

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Visited On Tuesday, 27 April 2021

a very enjoyable lunch and the staff were great

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Visited On Sunday, 25 April 2021

Great food, well spaced tables, attentive staff, and great little courtyard.

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Visited On Sunday, 25 April 2021

a bit chilly on the garden terrace. heaters were pointing more horizontal rather than towards the table. Nevertheless, great food experience. Thank you!

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Visited On Saturday, 24 April 2021

Great food, the steak is to die for. Lovely staff.

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Visited On Friday, 23 April 2021

Brilliant to be back at your restaurant. A wonderful evening!

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Visited On Friday, 23 April 2021

Excellent long lunch for a demanding group of 6. Highly recommended

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Visited On Friday, 23 April 2021

We had the most wonderful meal at Lurra post lock down. The food was outstanding and it was so nice to see the lovely staff again. Highly recommend it.

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Visited On Friday, 23 April 2021

Food was great. The service was average (the greeter was lovely, one of the waiters was lovely, one of the flamboyant male waiters acted like he was better than us and started huffing and puffing when we asked for wine recommendations).

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Visited On Wednesday, 21 April 2021

We loved our visit and the food was outstanding, as usual. The courtyard is great but encasing it in a plastic tent completely undoes the value in eating outdoors in terms of covid-safety. It'd be nice if the sides, at least, were raised so there was ventilation. Still very pleased you were open, taking reservations, and still providing the amazing food and service we've loved in the past. Thanks!

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Visited On Sunday, 18 April 2021

We were disappointed by the lack of taste of the grilled octopus. The legs tender but the part of the body not. The sauce was not adding the taste needed. Very grateful to the service for accommodating the food intolerances we pointed out. The atmosphere was not brilliant but I think it was due to Covid restrictions. For a restaurant of that level I missed the tablecloth on the tables.

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Visited On Friday, 16 April 2021

Excellent food, fabulous specials

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Visited On Friday, 16 April 2021

Very enjoyable 2.5 hours

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Visited On Wednesday, 14 April 2021

Great food. A little expensive and also cold outside (a symptom of weather not the restaurant), but best out of a bad situation regarding covid regulations. Service is very fast and accurate, and all staff are friendly.

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