Five Michelin star chefs unscathed by Jay Rayner

Claire Murray | Date posted - 02 Oct 2018

Michelin star chefs have been quaking in their boots since Observer critic Jay Rayner slated Christian Le Squer’s restaurant Le Cinq in his column. As reviews go, he didn’t pull any punches, describing the three Michelin-starred French venue as “bleak and terrible,” saying the food was “the stuff of therapy.” Acid tongued criticisms are his calling card; he once described Jason Atherton’s City Social as “all the very worst of the 1980’s revisited.”
But surely he must like the offerings of some tops chefs??

We’ve trawled through Jay’s Michelin star chefs reviews, looking for venues that he rated positively. We came up with a list of restaurants that are so good, Jay Rayner didn’t have anything terrible to say about them.

The Peat Inn by Geoffrey Smeddle

ResDiary was founded in Scotland and there’s nothing we love more than hearing about local Michelin star chefs. Which is why we were chuffed to see Jay Rayner had reviewed Geoffrey Smeddle’s The Peat Inn in Fife.

So, what did Mr Rayner have to say?

“God but it’s civilised. It’s a room in which life feels good and un-rushed.” From our experience, that says it all: The Peat Inn is the epitome of Scottish escapism with gorgeous decor and stunning scenery. Jay loved the food too of course, describing it as “exceptionally witty cookery” and at one point laughing at his plate, “or with it” at a “glorious piece of darkly glazed veal.”
It’s not all deep fried Mars bars and haggis on pizza up in Scotland and we’re delighted to see Jay Rayner championing delicious Scottish food.

The Ninth by Jun Tanaka

French, Mediterranean, Fine Dining

Jun Tanaka’s restaurant on Charlotte Street is often described as the “epitome of London style”, creating a foodie oasis in the middle of Fitzrovia. One of London’s top Michelin star chefs, Tanaka previously worked at La Gavroche and under Marco Pierre White, so he knows his stuff.

But what did Jay say?

He loved it of course. Describing Tanaka as “sodden with both technique and talent” he praised both the atmosphere and the food. He almost had us salivating when talking of the dishes he ate; “a sizeable ravioli of salt cod with a liquid egg yolk at its heart….pasta as silky as a Terry Thomas cravat” – yum!
If it’s good enough for Jay Rayner, it’s good enough for us. Anyone fancy lunch?

L'Enclume by Simon Rogan

Simon Rogan’s famous L’Enclume is situated in the heart of the rolling Cumbrian hills. Rogan is one of the UK’s top Michelin star chefs and L’Enclume is the type of restaurant that needs a deep pocket to visit.

But did Jay Rayner like it?

He most certainly did. After boasting about the chef-owner sweetly moaning that he needed to visit, Jay got down to the serious business of praising L’Enclume. He talks of “chasing the last drops” of toasted puffin barley around his plate and raves about a “crumbly biscuit of aged cheddar with a dollop of broccoli puree…..it was gone just as we recognised how intensely delicious it was.”
There’s nothing a real foodie loves more than a great cheese; this Rogan guy must know what he’s doing!

The Honours by Martin Wishart

Martin Wishart’s The Honours is a Scottish institution; a classic Scottish/French restaurant that rarely puts a foot wrong. (Not an easy feat on those old Edinburgh cobbles!)

Did Jay Rayner put the boot in though?

He certainly didn’t. Jay started his meal in a froth over a delicious “crab cappuccino” that he described as a “soup to get lost in.” He ended his meal with a declaration of his deep love for the Michelin star chef’s desserts saying “How can you not love a place that changes its souffle like the rest of us change our pants?” His mains and a more-ish spinach side dish didn’t go down too badly either.

NB: After comment from the man himself, we’d like to say that only 20% of Mr Rayner’s reviews are negative and he’s not always acid-tongued. Sometimes he’s very nice, if the food is very nice. (See above for delicious examples.)

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